Hochkirch & Tarrington Vineyards

Jennifer and John Nagorcka established their first vineyard in 1990 on their family farm in Henty in south-west Victoria. Initially the couple used conventional Australian viticulture methods and recommendations across their plantings (mostly Pinot Noir with some Riesling, Semillon, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon) but it simply didn’t suit their cool climate. So, in 1995 they began replanting eight hectares of their land, and this time they farmed it biodynamically.

In 2007, the couple acquired a half-share in John’s sister’s nearby property, Tarrington Vineyard (also certified biodynamic). The Nagorckas label the wines from each site separately but between the two farms many aspects and practices correlate. Both are north-facing on gravelly-loam basalt, sit 250 metres above sea level, and, considering the wild and chilly climate of Henty, are importantly enclosed. Seeing the similarity of their temperature to that in Burgundy, the Nagorckas have planted their Pinot Noir at the high density of 2000-2500 vines per acre to take advantage of soil warmth during the growing season. All the vines are dry-grown and on their own roots, vineyard work is manual, and yields are characteristically tiny.

The Nagorckas 20 acres of vines are within a 700-acre property that also produces wool, grain and meat, and the entire farm is Demeter-certified (since 2003), demonstrating the couple’s love of the land and firm commitment to balanced agriculture. They are known for their ability to leave the grapes to their own business: wild ferments, a little skin-contact for the whites, large neutral oak, no filtering or fining and minimal sulphur is the only addition. Prices fluctuate each vintage; a refreshingly honest indication of what drinkers will find in the bottle. Also welcome is their willingness to release some of their wines with a little bottle age—rare in a fast-moving world.